Couture Musings

Spring 2009 Trend Report

Transparency

Transparent fabrics, ranging in color from nudes, to black, to even bold
blues, were big on the runway this season. Whether they were used to accentuate the body (i.e. cut close and skin revealing) or used as long, draped, floating gowns, sheer fabrics were
everywhere. They were also a break from the proliferation of metallics and deep colors of the
previous season. Softer fabrics in neutral colors played up the lightness of forms and also toyed with ideas of what is hidden and what is revealed. 

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Calvin Klein

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Roberto Cavalli

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Blumarine

Off the
runway, this trend will likely involve a lot of layering, such gauzy tops will have to be worn over camisoles and dresses with slips. Transparency in jewelry can include transparent stones, such as quartz, or jewelry designers can make use of this washed-out color palate to create bolder pieces, using deeper colors that will really pop against the bright field.

Feminine Charm

While it might be a cliché that hemlines mirror the state of
the economy, it does seem that many designers are looking to times past
for inspiration. The classic, feminine designers that they are referring to in their current collections may indeed be a form of escapism. Feminine flourishes
such as ruffles, sequins, bows, lace, and polka-dots  are welcome distractions from the economic news. While lace and sequins especially have been on the radar for a while, the spring looks with these items were more toned down, with less glitz and glitter. They had more of
vintage feeling to them. Additionally, ruffles seem to have been made-over, with a more contemporary shape and depth.  To recap, the new feminine look can be vintage inspired or more modern
in their approach, but both come with amazing detail.

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Sophie Theallet

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Marchesa

This trend for lady-like dressing mixed with unique detail
was evident as last week’s Emmys, and the jewelry seemed to be right in step. There were more refined pieces and more care taken in pairing jewelry . While the luxury markets maybe in in turmoil, this style lends itself
to high craftsmanship and a very high taste level.

 

Play Time: The New , Old Shape

Designers Jack McCullogh and Lazaro Hernandes of Proenza
Schouler are widely recognized as the future of American designers. So everyone
took note when they continued the trend of jumpsuits and other pieces with high
volume, such as loose coats
and harem pants. All of these things seems to say ‘play-time’ and is, perhaps,
what people are in desperate need of.

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Proenza Schouler

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Prada

Jewelry has also been playing with scale during these shows, most notably at Mark Jacobs. He showed long, tasseled earrings, as well as extremely large necklaces–almost chest pieces! These had an artistic flair, used a lot of mixed materials, and will be an interesting trend to follow.

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Mark Jacobs

**The Return of the
Earring
 

Jewelry on the runway was especially playful. Earrings especially
are experiencing a comeback. Marc Jabobs displayed long earrings (above) while
Donna Karen adorned her models with big linked hoops, Zac Posen had disco-like hoops, and Proenza Schouler and
Rachel Comey showed clip on earrings.

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